The third and last most common Sealand Vacuflush marine toilet problem after a period of time is that the pump will run and run and won't shut off at all. This is the easiest one of all to fix. Most of the time when a customer says to me"Brad, the damn thing just never shuts off" I ask is this an 80's or early 90's vessel? Almost always it is. The fix is to replace the vacuum switch. The vacuum switch in older models is located in the end of the large white accumulater tank. The accumulater tank is a large white round tank with 2 wires going to one end of it. The little nub that sticks out from one end is the vacuum switch. Simply remove the 2 wires(paying attention to wheather they are on the "A" side or"B" side). Unscrew the entire assembly from the end of the accumulater tank and screw a new assembly in. Clean the surface where the large o-ring rests and lubricate it with dish soap. Never use grease or vasoline or anything petroleum based as a lubricant. Reinstall your wires and you are back in action.
The accumulater tank is most often found in the bilge in the engine room. Somtimes below the floor forward. In older 37 and 39 searays it is under the pull out dinette seat, a real pain in the rear.
If your toilet is in the 2000's for age then you probably have a vacuum generater. There are 2 types of vacuum generaters. If your vacuum generater has a black vacuum pump then it is a VG-3. The vacuum switch is located under the flexible plastic cover on top held down by two small screws. Remove this cover and loosen the hose clamp holding the vacuum switch in place. Pull the vacuum switch out(not threaded) and disconnect the wires. Install the new switch is the reverse of what we just did. Use dish soap on the double o-rings and be sure that they do not roll out of there little slot when sreinstalling as this will create a small vacuum leak. Soap up the opening and the o-rings, insert the vacuum sitch, now slowly turn the switch in the hole and look to make sure the o-rings are in place. Tighten hose clamp and reinstall wires, you are done.
The second vacuum generater is only if you have an 2006 or newer model. This is a J-W series unit. It will have a white pump on top of it. The vacuum switch sticks up, under a cover, in one corner of the unit. Very easy to get to. Simply remove the switch and install a new. As always these parts are available at very reasonable cost at www.marinediscounters.com
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Troubleshooting Vacuflush Marine Toiets.
Another very common problem after time is that the vacuum pump will run for no aparent reason and then shut off. My first question is always, "does the water in the toilet stay or slowly disapear & do you hear any hissing noises?" If the water does slowly disappear and/or a sucking or hissing noise is heard at the toilet then the bowl seal is bad. This is easy to replace. When you get your kit at (www.marinediscounters.com) there is very good instructions on how to replace the Vacuflush bowl seal. The large hose clamp at the base of the bowl should be loosened and the 2 1/2 rings set aside. Then lift the entire bowl up off the base. Remove the old bowl seal. The new bowl seal is a 2 seal kit. Be sure the thin tephlon seal goes down first and is installed properly. There is a cut out notch in the seal, there is a nub sticking up on the base of the toilet. Be sure these two fit together AND that the teflon seal says "this side up". Then install the second ring in the same manner. The second ring doesn't matter which side is up. NOW, at this point I always replace the flush ball when I replace the bowl seal because they wear together. If there is a scratch or something on the face or leading edge of the flush ball it will prematurly wear out your new seal. Once again there are good directions for replacing the flush ball and shft. It is however, trickier than the bowl seal replacement. To much for me to try and type hear. Reassemble your toilet is simply the reverse of all we have explained here. Do yourself a favor , after the bowl is back in lace and you are just ready to tighten the large hose clamp, open the lid and make sure the flush ball is centered in the bowl. Now tighten the large hose clamp and you are done. We do offer bench rebuilding if these precedures are not something you want to do.
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Answers to Vacuflush problems....
As most of probably know, Vacuflush marine toilets are one of the best on the market. They, however can be very tempermental after time. A few basic maintanence items will help eliminate this.
The complaint is typically that the pumps runs for no aparent reason for a short time and then suts off.
1) Standard maintance on the Vacuflush toilet system is to replace the duckbill valves every 5 years. If your's haven't been or you have purchased a used boat, simply replace them so you have a starting point. The duckbills valves are located at each end of the Sealand vacuum pump or vacuum generater. Simply remove one of the sanitation hoses at a time. Now unscrew the black hose nipples that the hose was attatched to. This is a two piece nipple, uncrew(seperate) them. There will be 2 buckbill valves in each end of the pump. Replace them making sure that they all face the same direction, pointing tword the holding tank or overboard valve. Thighten good and hand tight only. Replace hoses and flush 1/2 bowl of water through. It is a good idea to flush 2 or 3 bowls of water through the system in order to clean it out before disassembly.
In the case a vacuum generater you will need to remove the pump from the vacuum accumulater. Simply remove the 4, 7/16 head machine screws holding the pump on the accumulater and uncrew the white 1 1/2" screw collar from the gray 1 1/2" threaded nipple. The pump will lift off and then perform the above task.
These duckbill valves can be purchased very inexpensively at our web store, http://www.marinediscounters.com/
All vacuflush vacuum pumps and generaters pre 2006 use the black 1 1/2" duck billvalve. In mid 2006 Sealand put out a new vacuum generater using 2" duckbill valves. This vacuum generater is designated a "J" series pump. The pump is white and only has 1 hose nipple on the pump. The second nipple runs down the center of the pump. If you are confused as to what you have, simply know that if your's is pre 2006 you use an 1 1/2" duckbill valves. Mid 2006 and newer the pump will say "J-W" series on it. This is a 2" greenish duckbill vavle.
The complaint is typically that the pumps runs for no aparent reason for a short time and then suts off.
1) Standard maintance on the Vacuflush toilet system is to replace the duckbill valves every 5 years. If your's haven't been or you have purchased a used boat, simply replace them so you have a starting point. The duckbills valves are located at each end of the Sealand vacuum pump or vacuum generater. Simply remove one of the sanitation hoses at a time. Now unscrew the black hose nipples that the hose was attatched to. This is a two piece nipple, uncrew(seperate) them. There will be 2 buckbill valves in each end of the pump. Replace them making sure that they all face the same direction, pointing tword the holding tank or overboard valve. Thighten good and hand tight only. Replace hoses and flush 1/2 bowl of water through. It is a good idea to flush 2 or 3 bowls of water through the system in order to clean it out before disassembly.
In the case a vacuum generater you will need to remove the pump from the vacuum accumulater. Simply remove the 4, 7/16 head machine screws holding the pump on the accumulater and uncrew the white 1 1/2" screw collar from the gray 1 1/2" threaded nipple. The pump will lift off and then perform the above task.
These duckbill valves can be purchased very inexpensively at our web store, http://www.marinediscounters.com/
All vacuflush vacuum pumps and generaters pre 2006 use the black 1 1/2" duck billvalve. In mid 2006 Sealand put out a new vacuum generater using 2" duckbill valves. This vacuum generater is designated a "J" series pump. The pump is white and only has 1 hose nipple on the pump. The second nipple runs down the center of the pump. If you are confused as to what you have, simply know that if your's is pre 2006 you use an 1 1/2" duckbill valves. Mid 2006 and newer the pump will say "J-W" series on it. This is a 2" greenish duckbill vavle.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
