http://www.marinediscounters.com/ is proud to offer Wix filters at HUGE savings. Call 419-625-0605 or choose your filter in the "Filters" catagory. You will be interested in our prices on water pump impellers as well.
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Sea Hawk or Interlux barrier coat?
At http://www.marinediscounters.com/ Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff" and Interlux's "2000E" barrier coats are available at great prices. Which should you use?
They both do a great job in my extensive experience.
I, however, prefer Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff".
Here is why; While Interlux makes a decent product, the job will cost double in materials alone. The "Tough Stuff" is a much higher build product, meaning less coats. The "Tough Stuff" costs 168.97 a kit at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and is a gallon of part a and a gallon of hardener. This yields two gallons of barrier coat. In contrast the Interlux product is 3/4 gallon of part a and 1 qt. of hardener yielding only 1 gallon of barrier coat yet costing the same.
The "Tough Stuff" is a higher build product and gives you more material for your money. Be sure to try the Sea Hawk paints as well. They are available at substantial savings over Interlux at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ by calling 419-625-0605.
They both do a great job in my extensive experience.
I, however, prefer Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff".
Here is why; While Interlux makes a decent product, the job will cost double in materials alone. The "Tough Stuff" is a much higher build product, meaning less coats. The "Tough Stuff" costs 168.97 a kit at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and is a gallon of part a and a gallon of hardener. This yields two gallons of barrier coat. In contrast the Interlux product is 3/4 gallon of part a and 1 qt. of hardener yielding only 1 gallon of barrier coat yet costing the same.
The "Tough Stuff" is a higher build product and gives you more material for your money. Be sure to try the Sea Hawk paints as well. They are available at substantial savings over Interlux at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ by calling 419-625-0605.
What type of anodes should I use on my boat?
The reason for anodes on a boats hull, outdrive or running gear is to slow damage to gear due to electrolysis. In fresh water you should use magnesium (or aluminum if magnesium is unavailable). Zinc is used in salt water. Aluminum in used in brackish water.
The reasoning is simple. Salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so a harder "sacrificial anode" metal is used. Zinc is softer than your inboard boats rudders, propeller shafts and propellers thus drawing the electrolysis so as not to damage more expensive parts.
Fresh water does not conduct as well so a softer metal is used (preferably magnesium). Aluminum is in between the two on the hardness scale so is used in brackish water.
This is simple enough. What most don't take into consideration is that there is more salt water around the U.S.A. than fresh water. When a boat is built, the manufacturer doesn't know where the boat is being shipped to. The default anode is zinc.
Now, if a person takes this boat to fresh water, the anodes will not due there job properly.
Be sure to KNOW what anodes are on your boat and replace them every few years as they will get deteriorated and loose there ground, thus efficiency.
Anodes are less expensive than outdrives or propellers especially when purchased at www.marinediscounters.com.
Any person reading this will recieve free shipping on a 100.00 purchase of anodes by calling 419-625-0605 and mentioning www.marinediscounters.com
The reasoning is simple. Salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so a harder "sacrificial anode" metal is used. Zinc is softer than your inboard boats rudders, propeller shafts and propellers thus drawing the electrolysis so as not to damage more expensive parts.
Fresh water does not conduct as well so a softer metal is used (preferably magnesium). Aluminum is in between the two on the hardness scale so is used in brackish water.
This is simple enough. What most don't take into consideration is that there is more salt water around the U.S.A. than fresh water. When a boat is built, the manufacturer doesn't know where the boat is being shipped to. The default anode is zinc.
Now, if a person takes this boat to fresh water, the anodes will not due there job properly.
Be sure to KNOW what anodes are on your boat and replace them every few years as they will get deteriorated and loose there ground, thus efficiency.
Anodes are less expensive than outdrives or propellers especially when purchased at www.marinediscounters.com.
Any person reading this will recieve free shipping on a 100.00 purchase of anodes by calling 419-625-0605 and mentioning www.marinediscounters.com
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
What Model Vacuflush Toilet Do I Have?
This is a common question. Sealand does seem to make things more complicated than they should be sometimes. ALL vacuflush marine toilets have sticker under the decorative base surround that indicates the model and serial number.
Following is a guideline for you to use: 800 series toilets were followed by the 1000 series toilets which were followed by the current(hybrid) 5000 series toilet. There is also a compact series of toilets, the 100 series. There is a 500 series which is larger(house hold bowl). If you think of vacuflush toilets this way they are simple to figure out. Even better, the 800 and 1000 series are no longer available(although parts are). The vacuflush toilet is a base assembly(part of the model description) and a bowl(the other part of the model description).
No matter what model there designations to what type of discharge the toilet has. For example: In an 848 model toilet the 8 denotes bowl style. The 48 denotes above floor discharge to the rear of the toilet. A 1006 would be a 1000 series bowl with 06 denoting below floor discharge and a short base. Bellow is a chart to follow.
848=800 series bowl above floor, rear discharge base
847=800 series bowl above floor, left discharge base
849=800 series bowl above floor, right discharge base
806=800 series bowl below floor discharge short base
808=800 series bowl below floor discharge tall base
As you see 48 always denotes above floor rear discharge, 06 denotes short toilet below floor discharge, etc. So no matter what model toilet you have, if you can understand the base design, the bowl is just a different shape.
Be advised ALL 500,800,1000 bases are the same and use ALL the same parts. ALL 100 series toilets use the same parts. The 5000 series is a hybrid of the 1000 and 100 series vacuflush toilet. The only parts kit in the base that is different, however, is the ball and shaft kit(5000 series takes same as 100 series spring cartridge has black end). ALL VACUFLUSH BOWL SEALS FOR MARINE APPLICATION ARE THE SAME!!!!!!!!
Complete vacuflush toilet bases as well as all vacuflush parts are available at great prices at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ . You may also feel free to call at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com with your questions or to order parts.
Following is a guideline for you to use: 800 series toilets were followed by the 1000 series toilets which were followed by the current(hybrid) 5000 series toilet. There is also a compact series of toilets, the 100 series. There is a 500 series which is larger(house hold bowl). If you think of vacuflush toilets this way they are simple to figure out. Even better, the 800 and 1000 series are no longer available(although parts are). The vacuflush toilet is a base assembly(part of the model description) and a bowl(the other part of the model description).
No matter what model there designations to what type of discharge the toilet has. For example: In an 848 model toilet the 8 denotes bowl style. The 48 denotes above floor discharge to the rear of the toilet. A 1006 would be a 1000 series bowl with 06 denoting below floor discharge and a short base. Bellow is a chart to follow.
848=800 series bowl above floor, rear discharge base
847=800 series bowl above floor, left discharge base
849=800 series bowl above floor, right discharge base
806=800 series bowl below floor discharge short base
808=800 series bowl below floor discharge tall base
As you see 48 always denotes above floor rear discharge, 06 denotes short toilet below floor discharge, etc. So no matter what model toilet you have, if you can understand the base design, the bowl is just a different shape.
Be advised ALL 500,800,1000 bases are the same and use ALL the same parts. ALL 100 series toilets use the same parts. The 5000 series is a hybrid of the 1000 and 100 series vacuflush toilet. The only parts kit in the base that is different, however, is the ball and shaft kit(5000 series takes same as 100 series spring cartridge has black end). ALL VACUFLUSH BOWL SEALS FOR MARINE APPLICATION ARE THE SAME!!!!!!!!
Complete vacuflush toilet bases as well as all vacuflush parts are available at great prices at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ . You may also feel free to call at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com with your questions or to order parts.
Rebuild or Replace My Vacuflush Marine Toilet
Should I rebuild or replace my old Sealand Vacuflush Marine toilet? This is a question I get alot, after all vacuflush toilets are expensive. My best advise to a customer who, perhaps, has a 800 series vacuflush toilet made back in the 1980's is to replace the base.
What happens is, I get called out for an older toilet that leaks vacuum, water, sewage or all of the above. If I put a bowl seal and ball and shaft kit in an older toilet then add labor, you are at 3/4 the price of a brand new base assembly. Another problem that most don't realize is that, after a plastic Vacuflush toilet base has the porcelain bowl clamped to it for a period of time it takes that shape and probably won't revert back. After, say, 15 years of being in a position, then disassembled, parts replaced and reassembled, the base probably will not go back to the exact shape around the bowl. You will have spent money on parts, labor and had headaches. After all this, the problem has very a good chance of still existing or even getting worse. I've been through this so many times in my business that I can't guarantee the fix on 20 yr or older toilets.
Go to www.marinediscounters.com and go to the VACUFLUSH catagory. You will find the base assemblies for your vacuflush marine toilet there for sale at great pricing. Your existing toilet will have a sticker on the base(behind the decorative base surround). This sticker will have the model and serial number of your toilet. ALL VAUFLUSH TOILET BASES 500 SERIES, 800 SERIES, 1000 SERIES, 5000 SERIES USE THE SAME BASE. The screw holes as well as all other components are identical (except the 5000 series takes a different flush ball and spring cartridge as well as vacuum break).
To replace the base simply disconnect the discharge hose and fresh water hose. Then unbolt from the floor. Now just remove the bowl by removing the large hose clamp around the base of the bowl. To reassemble, simply set you new base on the floor, set the bowl on top(make sure the flush ball is centered in bowl). Install the 2 half clamps, roll the large hose clamp over them and tighten the hose clamp. Now reinstall your toilet. VERY SIMPLE. There is less labor involved to replace the vacuflush toilet base than there is to replace the bowl seal and ball and shaft kit. As always, feel free to call me at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com for free technical assistance or to order parts. Thank you for making www.marinediscounters.com your vacuflush parts source.
What happens is, I get called out for an older toilet that leaks vacuum, water, sewage or all of the above. If I put a bowl seal and ball and shaft kit in an older toilet then add labor, you are at 3/4 the price of a brand new base assembly. Another problem that most don't realize is that, after a plastic Vacuflush toilet base has the porcelain bowl clamped to it for a period of time it takes that shape and probably won't revert back. After, say, 15 years of being in a position, then disassembled, parts replaced and reassembled, the base probably will not go back to the exact shape around the bowl. You will have spent money on parts, labor and had headaches. After all this, the problem has very a good chance of still existing or even getting worse. I've been through this so many times in my business that I can't guarantee the fix on 20 yr or older toilets.
Go to www.marinediscounters.com and go to the VACUFLUSH catagory. You will find the base assemblies for your vacuflush marine toilet there for sale at great pricing. Your existing toilet will have a sticker on the base(behind the decorative base surround). This sticker will have the model and serial number of your toilet. ALL VAUFLUSH TOILET BASES 500 SERIES, 800 SERIES, 1000 SERIES, 5000 SERIES USE THE SAME BASE. The screw holes as well as all other components are identical (except the 5000 series takes a different flush ball and spring cartridge as well as vacuum break).
To replace the base simply disconnect the discharge hose and fresh water hose. Then unbolt from the floor. Now just remove the bowl by removing the large hose clamp around the base of the bowl. To reassemble, simply set you new base on the floor, set the bowl on top(make sure the flush ball is centered in bowl). Install the 2 half clamps, roll the large hose clamp over them and tighten the hose clamp. Now reinstall your toilet. VERY SIMPLE. There is less labor involved to replace the vacuflush toilet base than there is to replace the bowl seal and ball and shaft kit. As always, feel free to call me at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com for free technical assistance or to order parts. Thank you for making www.marinediscounters.com your vacuflush parts source.
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