Boat & Yacht Maintenance and Repair

Try Woolsey Antifouling Bottom Paint

2012-02-09T06:07:00.000-08:00

Introducing Woolsey ablative antifouling bottom paint. Woolsey is Marinediscounters and http://www.marinediscounters.com/ private label paint. Manufactured for us by Pettit paints. Woolsey "Ablative Plus" is a 33.6% copperous oxide ablative antifouling boat bottom paint (perfect for multiseason fresh water use). No sanding needed when overcoating. Is compatable with most ablative bottom paints. Compares to EpoxyCop Ablative, Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT, Super-B Ablative, Ultima SSA,CPP Plus at a fraction of the cost. As of this writing Woolsey Ablative Plus is available at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ for 89.97 per gallon. Available in black,blue,green and red gallons. Only black in quarts. More copperous oxide paints are available in our Woolsey brand as well for our salt water customers. Call Marinediscounters at 419-625-0605 with your questions or for quantity discounts.

Wix oil and fuel filters at HUGE savings.

2011-05-17T20:06:00.000-07:00

http://www.marinediscounters.com/ is proud to offer Wix filters at HUGE savings. Call 419-625-0605 or choose your filter in the "Filters" catagory. You will be interested in our prices on water pump impellers as well.

Sea Hawk or Interlux barrier coat?

2011-05-17T20:01:00.000-07:00

At http://www.marinediscounters.com/ Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff" and Interlux's "2000E" barrier coats are available at great prices. Which should you use?
They both do a great job in my extensive experience.
I, however, prefer Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff".
Here is why; While Interlux makes a decent product, the job will cost double in materials alone. The "Tough Stuff" is a much higher build product, meaning less coats. The "Tough Stuff" costs 168.97 a kit at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and is a gallon of part a and a gallon of hardener. This yields two gallons of barrier coat. In contrast the Interlux product is 3/4 gallon of part a and 1 qt. of hardener yielding only 1 gallon of barrier coat yet costing the same.
The "Tough Stuff" is a higher build product and gives you more material for your money. Be sure to try the Sea Hawk paints as well. They are available at substantial savings over Interlux at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ by calling 419-625-0605.

What type of anodes should I use on my boat?

2011-05-17T19:49:00.000-07:00

The reason for anodes on a boats hull, outdrive or running gear is to slow damage to gear due to electrolysis. In fresh water you should use magnesium (or aluminum if magnesium is unavailable). Zinc is used in salt water. Aluminum in used in brackish water.
The reasoning is simple. Salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so a harder "sacrificial anode" metal is used. Zinc is softer than your inboard boats rudders, propeller shafts and propellers thus drawing the electrolysis so as not to damage more expensive parts.
Fresh water does not conduct as well so a softer metal is used (preferably magnesium). Aluminum is in between the two on the hardness scale so is used in brackish water.
This is simple enough. What most don't take into consideration is that there is more salt water around the U.S.A. than fresh water. When a boat is built, the manufacturer doesn't know where the boat is being shipped to. The default anode is zinc.
Now, if a person takes this boat to fresh water, the anodes will not due there job properly.
Be sure to KNOW what anodes are on your boat and replace them every few years as they will get deteriorated and loose there ground, thus efficiency.
Anodes are less expensive than outdrives or propellers especially when purchased at www.marinediscounters.com.
Any person reading this will recieve free shipping on a 100.00 purchase of anodes by calling 419-625-0605 and mentioning www.marinediscounters.com

What Model Vacuflush Toilet Do I Have?

2011-01-05T09:00:00.000-08:00

This is a common question. Sealand does seem to make things more complicated than they should be sometimes. ALL vacuflush marine toilets have sticker under the decorative base surround that indicates the model and serial number.
Following is a guideline for you to use: 800 series toilets were followed by the 1000 series toilets which were followed by the current(hybrid) 5000 series toilet. There is also a compact series of toilets, the 100 series. There is a 500 series which is larger(house hold bowl). If you think of vacuflush toilets this way they are simple to figure out. Even better, the 800 and 1000 series are no longer available(although parts are). The vacuflush toilet is a base assembly(part of the model description) and a bowl(the other part of the model description).
No matter what model there designations to what type of discharge the toilet has. For example: In an 848 model toilet the 8 denotes bowl style. The 48 denotes above floor discharge to the rear of the toilet. A 1006 would be a 1000 series bowl with 06 denoting below floor discharge and a short base. Bellow is a chart to follow.
848=800 series bowl above floor, rear discharge base
847=800 series bowl above floor, left discharge base
849=800 series bowl above floor, right discharge base
806=800 series bowl below floor discharge short base
808=800 series bowl below floor discharge tall base

As you see 48 always denotes above floor rear discharge, 06 denotes short toilet below floor discharge, etc. So no matter what model toilet you have, if you can understand the base design, the bowl is just a different shape.
Be advised ALL 500,800,1000 bases are the same and use ALL the same parts. ALL 100 series toilets use the same parts. The 5000 series is a hybrid of the 1000 and 100 series vacuflush toilet. The only parts kit in the base that is different, however, is the ball and shaft kit(5000 series takes same as 100 series spring cartridge has black end). ALL VACUFLUSH BOWL SEALS FOR MARINE APPLICATION ARE THE SAME!!!!!!!!
Complete vacuflush toilet bases as well as all vacuflush parts are available at great prices at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ . You may also feel free to call at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com with your questions or to order parts.

Rebuild or Replace My Vacuflush Marine Toilet

2011-01-05T08:20:00.000-08:00

Should I rebuild or replace my old Sealand Vacuflush Marine toilet? This is a question I get allot, after all vacuflush toilets are expensive. My best advise to a customer who, perhaps, has a 800 series vacuflush toilet made back in the 1980's is to replace the base.

What happens is I get called out the an older toilet that leaks vacuum, water, sewage or all of the above. If I put a bowl seal and ball and shaft kit in an older toilet then add labor, you are at 3/4 the price of a brand new base assembly. Another problem that most don't realize is that, after a plastic Vacuflush toilet base has the porcelain bowl clamped to it for a period of time it takes that shape a probably won't revert back. After, say, 15 years of being in a position, then disassembled, parts replaced and reassembled, the base probably will not go back to the exact shape around the bowl. You will have spent money on parts, labor and had headaches. After all this the problem has very good chance of still existing or even getting worse. I've been through this so many times in my business that I can't guarantee the fix on 20 yr or older toilets.

Go to www.marinediscounters.com and go to the VACUFLUSH catagory. You will find the base assemblies for your vacuflush marine toilet there for sale at great pricing. Your existing toilet will have a sticker on the base(behind the decorative base surround). This sticker will have the model and serial number of your toilet. ALL VAUFLUSH TOILET BASES 500 SERIES, 800 SERIES, 1000 SERIES & 5000 SERIES ARE THE SAME BASE. The screw holes as well as all other components are identical (except the 5000 series takes a different flush ball and spring cartridge).

To replace the base simply disconnect the discharge hose and fresh water hose. Then unbolt from the floor. Now just remove the bowl by removing the large hose clamp around the base of the bowl. To reassemble, simply set you new base on the floor, set the bowl on top(make sure the flush ball is centered in bowl). Install the 2 half clamps, roll the large hose clamp over them and tighten the hose clamp. Now reinstall your toilet. VERY SIMPLE. There is less labor involved to replace the vacuflush toilet base than there is to replace the bowl seal and ball and shaft kit. As always, feel free to call me at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com for free technical assistance or to order parts. Thank you for making www.marinediscounters.com your vacuflush parts source.

WIX Brand Oil, Fuel & Air Filters

2010-12-07T08:40:00.000-08:00

http://www.marinediscounters.com/ now offers a full line of high quality WIX oil,fuel and air filters. I have done my homework and believe http://www.marinediscounters.com/ is offering the lowest price on Wix marine filters. There are so many filters available that I have them listed on the web site by price and part number. Simply thumb through the Wix filters prices until you find your part number in the drop box on http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and the price is shown(as well as all other part numbers in that price range).

Weather you need Wix filters for Catapiller, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, Yanmar, Westerbeke, Volvo, Man Diesel or whatever, we will save you money. Wix filters for gas Mercruiser, Crusader, Chrysler, Volvo, Chris Craft, OMC, Onan, Kohler, Weaterbeke any many more.

It gets even better, If you buy by the case(12) you will save an additional 10% or recive FREE SHIPPING!!!! Call for this great deal on quantities of high quality Wix filters.

Any questions please call 419-625-0605.
HAPPY BOATING

Genuine Mercruiser Quicksilver Parts

2010-12-07T08:19:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone, I am Proud to inform you that , THANKS TO YOU, http://www.marinediscounters.com/ has had a record year. We continue to expand our product offerings with Genuine Mercury and Mercruiser parts and lubricants. I am dedicated to bringing you all the marine parts and accesories possible at the lowest possible prices. Check out http://www.marinediscounters.com/ for Mercruiser Quicksilver 25w40 oil as well as Synthetic oil. Quicksilver Personal watercraft, outboard & quicksilver D.F.I. oils as well as Mercruiser Quicksilver gear lube.

Along the lines of Mercruiser ignition parts we offer Mercruiser ignition sensers, tilt and trim sensers and distributer cap & Rotor kits in sierra. Sierra distributer caps are actually better quality than the Mercruiser brand as the electodes are copper(mercruiser uses aluminum).

AC Delco spark plugs, including the popular mr43t & mr43lts are available for only $2.89. AC Delco Platinum spark plugs for as low as $7.97 ea. ALL SPARK PLUGS RECIEVE FREE SHIPPING!!!!

As always, if the parts you are searching for have not been listed yet please feel free to call 419-625-0605. All calls that mention the website http://www.marinediscounters.com/ or this blog enjoy the low 25% markup from my cost(we do not mark from top down, rather from cost up) on anything you may need.

Marinediscounters New Brick & Morter Location

2010-09-25T10:07:00.000-07:00

First allow me thank the hundreds of you who have called asking for advise(and subsequently buying parts). It is great to talk to actual people and get to know some of you. In March of 2010 I opened my retail store "Marine Discounters" at 1027 1st street here in Sandusky, Ohio. The store is a huge hit. We stock everything for maintaining your vessel and keeping those engines running smoothly. In the last few days we took on Wix filters. I believe you will find my pricing VERY competitive. Filters for Onan, Kohler, Westerbeke, Yanmar, Detroit Disiel, Cummins, Volvo, Catapiller are matched with high quality Wolfs Head motor oils as well Rotella T. We stock wix filters for gas engines as well, however the Sierra line is as good and even more competitively priced. I've learned that windshield wiper blades and inserts by Anco are almost impossible to find(at least around here). We have it all. Our Seachoice house line of products consists of high quality products, manufactured by such nationally known company's as Johnson pump, Taylor Made, and Perko. Looking for dock lines? Be sure to call 419-625-0605. Our double braided lines are literally half price of many of our competitors. In need of bulk stainless steel fasteners? Once again, we are blowing the competition away. If in northern Ohio, between Cleveland and Toledo be sure to stop in and say "Hi".

Kanberra Gel Great For Storage & Air Conditioning Duct

2010-09-25T09:38:00.000-07:00

We recently took on a distributorship for Kanberra Gel here at www.marinediscounters.com. Many of you have trusted me for years with your mechanical and Vacuflush questions. Allow me too recommend Kanberra gel for your boat/yachts storage and air conditioning systems. This product does an excellent job of eliminating mold, mildew, bacteria and many common viruses. I have customers putting the containers in the head to eliminate sanitation line odors as well as that rotten egg smell(that by the way comes from red pop being put in the fresh water tank during winterizing). This product is based with all natural Tea Tree Oils. Simply set a container on the galley table, dresser, in a closet, etc. The enzymes will dissipate through the space and eliminate mold and mildew spores as well as bacteria on a molecular level. The canister will empty to about a pea size in a few weeks however the affects will last for up to 3 months. Place the container in the air conditioning systems return air stream and allow the enzymes to permeate through the duct work eliminating mold, mildew, bacteria as well dust mites. A very mild pleasant aroma ensues. www.marinediscounters carries the 2 oz. size good for head and closet spaces. The 4 oz. is good for boats 20 ft. and under. The 4 oz. is good for boats 40 ft. and under and boats over 40 ft. will uses multiple containers. For the discerning yachtsman scoop out the product and place in a container in light sconces, etc. For more details check there web site at www.kanberragel.com then come back to www.marinediscounters.com for your usual best prices.
This is just one of many new product offerings coming soon. As always, only the best quality, proven products will get my personal endorsement.
Be sure to call and ask about the high quality air conditioning filters and coil cleaners you will see at www.kanberragel.com

2009-08-05T12:18:00.001-07:00

Free website - Wix.com

Fix for Chrysler marine alternaters

2009-07-26T06:27:00.000-07:00

I recently had a customer come into my shop at Pflieger Marine Services(419-625-0605) with a problem of a Chrysler marine 318 engine that the alternator would not charge. The alternator on a Chrysler marine engine has been obsolete (as have been parts for said alternator) for years. I was able to make a fast and fairly inexpensive solution to this problem.

Remove the Chrysler marine engine alternator. Purchase part number AR20102 at http://www.marinediscounters.com/. This is a new alternator made by Arco. It is a Delco style alternator and I am going to tell you how to make it work.

Install Arco alternator on Chrysler marine engine. Install the gray or purple number 10 wire on the large stud on the back of the Arco alternator. Now cut the orange wire with the small ring terminal off and tape it. This wire is no longer used. Make sure the belt is tight and tighten the alternator. Now go to the rear of the engine next to the starter. You will find a black box mounted on a plate and next to it will be a relay. Find the other end of the orange wire you cut and cut it off here and tape it. This wire is no longer used. Remove the small black box. It is the old voltage regulator. It will be mounted on the plate and have rubber foot mountings. Gray or purple number 10 wire that is now connected to the back of the alternator will probably be connected to the voltage regulater. Disconnect this, install a larger ring terminal on the end of the wire and connect this number 10 wire to the incoming side of the starter solenoid. The small ground strap left where the voltage regulator was may be eliminated as may the short wire that ran from the relay to the voltage regulator. This is very simple and can be done in about 10 minutes. As always, feel free to Pflieger Marine Services at 419-625-0605 for free technical advise and thank you for buying your marine parts at http://www.marinediscounters.com/. Since this posting, I now (2/9/12) have even more savings for you as I have a new line of alternaters that is 1/2 price from the Arco ones. Also, due to huge response I have learned that there are 3 different mountings to your Chryler engine. No worries simply call Marinediscounters at 419-625-0605 or email me a pic. at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com

YES, your boats holding tank can be full.

2009-07-26T06:04:00.000-07:00

I have had an absolute rash of customers with a similar Vacuflush problem. They come to me(Pflieger Marine Services 419-625-0605) and say " my vacuflush toilet won't make any vacuum but it does run" or "my Vacuflush toilet runs for a while and trips the breaker without making any vacuum".
I almost always tell them to check if there waste holding tank is full. The reply is inevitably, "it CAN"T be full, we just had it pumped out".

If your Vacuflush system is running without shutting off, and making NO VACUUM there is a good chance the tank is full or the vent line is plugged. When the Vacuflush pump comes on and pumps liquid to the waste holding tank, the air in that tank must be displaced out the vent line. If this does not happen the waste tank becomes pressurized. Once this happens the pump can not push against the back pressure thus no vacuum is made or(if the pump motor is weak) the breaker will trip. Worst case scenario is an exploded tank in the bilge.
If the vent line is plugged(from overfilling into it, corrosion or spider webs) then it can not be pumped out either. You may take the boat to the pump out and suck it out a little(usually just relieving the pressure on the tank) but with out positive airflow through the vent line the waste holding tank can not be pumped out. A trick is to hold down the foot pedal at the toilet thus giving a vent there.

The test is simple . Remove vent line from tank(carefully). Now flush toilet. If liquid pumps out of vent fitting, guess what? Now take boat to pump out (with this connection open) and pump out waste holding tank. After that check for a Sealand vent filter. If your boat is equipped with a Sealand vent filter, water in that filter will pack the activated charcoal thus stopping the venting action. Replace the Sealand vent filter. They may be purchased very inexpensively at my website www.marinediscounters.com. If no vent filter is present then check for water or T.P. in a low spot in the hose. Also look at the vent discharge fitting at the side of the boat. If it is a chrome fitting as is used on Vikings, egg harbor and ocean yacht the screen inside will corrode or be packed with spider webs and stop the venting action. As is always our policy, please feel free to call for free technical assistance at 419-625-0605 and we appreciate your business at www.marinediscounters.com.

ETHANOL 101: What You Need To Know About E10/Ethanol Fuel

2009-06-16T05:13:00.000-07:00

There are 4 main problems with E10/Ethanol fuel. Problem 1: Debris in fuel
Ethanol is a powerful solvent and when first introduced it strips away any gums, varnish, or other build up found in fuel tanks and fuel delivery systems. This debris drops into the fuel and leads to colgged filters, injectors, and carburetors. An easy fix to this problem is STAR TRON, buy STAR TRON at the best avialable prices at www.marinediscounters.com. STAR TRON's enzymes break down this debris into sub-micron sized particles that are safely burned away while the engine operates. This greatly reduces the engine problems associated with the initial use of E10 fuels.
Problem 2: Excessive water in the fuel and phase separation
Ethanol attracts moisture from the atmosphere, chemically bonding with it to form an ethanol/water molecule. Water in the fuel causes engines to run rough, stall and can lead to internal damage to engine components. Fuel will naturally hold .5% water in suspension, but if water levels exceed this threshold, the water drops out of suspension. The water/ethanol molecules are heavier than the fuel and drop to the bottom of the tank, the remaining fuel is left without enough octane to properly operate the engine. Plus, the ethanol/water mixture is only partially combustible which can lead to severe engine problems. STAR TRON's enzymes prevent the water and ethanol molecules from chemically bonding. Therefore the water falls harmlessly to the bottom of the tank leaving the ethanol molecules in suspension with the fuel and preserving the fuel's octane rating. This prevents phase separation from occuring. The remaining water on the bottom of the tank is broken down to sub-micron size allowing it to be safely burned away while the engine is operating. Buy STAR TRON at an unbelievable price at www.marinediscounters.com.
Problem 3: Ethanol fuels break down quickly
Ethanol and gasoline do not chemically bond, instead they are held together in a weak suspension. Over a short period of time the E10 fuel begins to break down. The fuel begins forming solids which can clog the fuel delivery system and reduce octane ratings. STAR TRON is also a powerful fuel stabilizer which prevents the fuel's breakdown for up to 1 year. STAR TRON will also rejuvenate old fuel, restoring it to serviceable condition. Buy STAR TRON at www.marinediscounters.com at the best price on the web.
Problem 4: Ethanol causes lost power performance and decreased fuel economy
Ethanol does not produce as much energy as gasoline, losing up to 20+% of its power. E10 fuels result in decreased performance, reduced throttle response, and greatly reduced fuel economy. Unburnt fuel leads to carbon deposits. STAR TRON's enzymes allow more oxygen to attach to the fuel molecules at the time of combustion, resulting in a more complete burn of the fuel. This leads to greatly improved fuel economy as well as restored power and throttle response. The enzymes remove existing carbon deposits and future deposits are prevented.
STAR TRON is the ONLY mulitfunctional fuel additive that addresses all Ethanol Issues. For 6 years now, STAR TRON has been solving ethanol problems for boaters across the US. It will do the same job for cars, trucks, snowmobile, ATV, PWC, and motorcycle owners. STAR TRON works in all 2 and 4 cycle engines under all conditions. In addition to improving performance when using E10 fuel, it will also stabilize fuel for 1 year, making it the only all-season, all-purpose additive you need. It does this at the lowest cost of any fuel additive. Be careful of what additive you use - many are alcohol-based. Adding any alcohol to E10 can lead to engine problems. STAR TRON does not contain any alcohol and is 100% safe for use in E10 fuel. Read the MSDS of any fuel additive before using it with E10. Buy STAR TRON at the best price at www.marinediscounters.com.

2009-05-24T05:59:00.000-07:00

www.marinediscounters.com is now stocking all the hose you need. In hardwall (wire wound) we have 5/8" all the way up to 6" I.D. @ great prices. We also have fuel fill and feed/vent hose. Pottable water hose from 3/8" to 1". Even "vernatube"./ This is solid fiberglass tubing in 1" to 6" I.D. great for long exaust runs (and cheaper than hose). This "vernatube" is also available in all different configurations i.e.; 4" 45 degree bend, 3" to 4" reducer, 4" pipe with two 3" nipples for exhaust crossover. Almost anything you can imagine, this comes that way. Simply call Pflieger Marine Services @ 419-625-0605 for your quote. There are just too many configurations for me to put on www.marinediscounters.com. You may also fax (419-625-6825)a drawing of what special piece is needed and we will get it for you.

Brad
Pflieger Marine Services
www.marinediscounters.com

Vacuflush Suction Pump At 1/2 Price!!

2008-06-20T04:13:00.000-07:00

This blog I am posting to help all of my valued customers save big money. How to come up with a Vacuflush suction pump at literally half price. By going into my web site at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and buying the parts and assembling them yourself(or have us do it for you) the total price of a Vacuflush suction pump is only 383.97. As you already know this pump retails around 750.00.
You will need 1) Sealand Vacuflush Suction pump body P.N. 341504
2) Vacuflush hose nipples P.N. 347800
2) Vacuflush nipple adapters P.N. sea347801
1) Vacuflush vacuum pump o-ring kit P.N.310151
4) Vacuflush duckbill valves
1)Vacuflush W-motor upgrade kit P.N.sea 311423
1)Vacuflush vacuum pump lid P.N. 341506
The only other thing that is needed are some machine screws around the top to hold the top down.
I know this sounds hard but it very easy to assemble. First holding the pump body with the long end to your left install 1 duckbill valve into the pump body facing the direction of the arrow on the body. Next install 1 nipple adapter by screwing it into the body against the duckbill valve. Now install 1 duckbill valve inside of that nipple adapter facing toward the first one and then install 1 hose nipple over that. On the right side, install 1 duckbill valve into 1 nipple adapter from the threaded end so the duck bill is pointing right(all duckbills must point the same way). Screw that adapter into the pump body on the right side. Now install the last duckbill into the last hose nipple and screw that nipple into the adapter. You are 1/2 way done.
Now, set the body on the table and get your o-ring kit and w-motor upgrade kit. The large square o-ring goes in the slot around the top of the body. The small round o-ring goes in the slot around the inside of the bellows on the w-motor upgrade kit. Take the 2 black 1/2 rings and posiotion them across from each other, flat side up around the neck of the bellows. They will fit into a groove made for them on the bellows. Squeeze them together tightly against the bellows so that the 2 ends almost touch. Now set that entire assembly into the pump body. It will not go down into the pump body perposely. Kock it to the side slightly and use a rubber mallat or brass hammer to TAP the high side down into the body. Now you may TAP all the around untill the top of the 1/2 rings are flush with the top of the pump body. Now, grease the small o-ring in the center of the bellows. Take the vacuum pump top, and set it over top of the bellows arm so that the neck of the top touches the o-ring in the bellows. Kock the top slightly and tap the high side so that the top seats flat on the pump body. Look through the top of the pump and make sure that the o-ring is still in the proper postion. Now install the (self supplied) machine screws in the holes around the top and attach the motor to the housing with the excentric going through the center of the bellows. You have done it and it takes less than half an hour to save hundreds of dollars.
Feel free to call us at 419-625-0605 for free advise as always. I will be putting a seperate part number(MD001) on the web site that will encompass all the parts needed to build your half price suction pump. For those of you who wish to have it assembled professionally the price will be 452.72 (1 hr labor added). This still an unbelievable way for you to either upgrade to the whisper quiet pump, replace that old pump with the large steel band around it or get a new vacuflush system and save alot of money on this component.

OLD AIR CONDITIONING

2008-05-11T05:37:00.000-07:00

This post is meant to inform our customers of an inexpensive and very reliable way of retiring those old, loud worn out marine air conditioners. For a few years now I have been selling the Webasto brand air conditioners at the Cleveland boat show and on the web site, http://www.marinediscounters.com/, with great success. The bottom line is that you the boat owner, can now get rid of that "Marine Air" or "Cruise Air" self contained unit that is loud, leaking freon blowing breakers or giving you faults. These Webasto units are literally about 50% to 80% less expensive to buy. They come with a 2 year complete warranty. They are reverse cycle. The kit comes with a digital control standard also a remote control. These are 100% self contained, meaning there are no shrader valves installed for recharging them. The question I get right away is "what about if I get a leak"? As a technician, allow me to fill you in on a secret. I shrader valve is almost always where the leak occurs. After all, how often do you recharge the refrigerator in you kitchen(also self contained).
The upgrade from 3 knobs "Marine Air" to digital is around 700.00 plus the mounting kit of 120.00 plus the cable of around 80.00. That is 870.00. Now if you hire someone to do this at 80.00 hr, assuming 4 hours to remove the old and install the new, you are at 1190.00. The new Webasto 12,000 btu reverse cycle with digital control and remote and a new 2 year warranty is only about 1600.00. The same Marine Air unit is 2900.00.
This is just value added information for our customers at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and something to consider when thinking of replacement of an old air conditioner.

Happy Spring to all,
Brad
As always questions or comments can be posted.

Ethanol in fuel

2008-02-17T07:40:00.000-08:00

This is a service update sent to me by Crusader Corp. on 10/2006 regarding ethanol in fuel:

This product information update addresses the use of ethanol blended fuel and it's effects on Crusader engines. The implementation of ethanol-based fuel is spreading rapidly throughout the United States. As such, Crusader Engines provides the following information regarding the use of this fuel.

Ethanol blended fuel rated E-10 or less is acceptable to use. Fuels rated higher than E-10 SHOULD NOT BE USED. Ethanol fuels rated higher than E-10 could potentially damage the engine and/or present an unsafe boating condition. Damage to the engine due to fuel rated higher than E-10 is NOT covered by the warranty. DO NOT use any gasoline containing methanol. This very corrosive a will create an unsafe boating condition.

It is important to note that ethanol blended fuel will act as a solvent and will attract and hold moisture. Without proper fuel stabilization and fuel filtration, ethanol blended fuel may cause the following:
- Excessive moisture(water) may cause lean operation to include hard starting and operating difficulties such as, vapor lock, low speed stalling and shortened fuel shelf life.
- Acting as a solvent, ethanol blended fuel may cause gum, sediment, sludge and other particles to be loosened and carried through the fuel system to the engine.

Fuel Stabilizer Recommended for Ethanol Blended Fuel
The use of a commercially available fuel stabilizer, such as Star Tron or Sta-Bil is recommended when storing ethanol blended fuel for more the 2 weeks.

New Fuel Filter Recommendations for Ethanol Blended Fuels
Because ethanol blended fuel will act as a solvent and will attract and hold moisture, Crusader Engines recommends the use of a water separating fuel filter, for each engine, between the fuel tank and the engine.
The filter must be rated for gas use and have a 10 micron filtering capability and a minimum rating of 90 gallons per hour. Water separating fuel filters should be checked frequently for water and contaminants.
WARNING
Accumulation of water and other fuel contaminants may form corrosive compounds that can damage the fuel filter and result in leakage. Ethanol blended fuel may increase this risk. For this reason, annual replacement of the fuel filter, at a minimum, is required to avoid risk of explosion or fire.

Crusader Engines recommends that the fuel/water separating fuel filter be mounted as low as possible, relative to the fuel source, away from heat and easily accessible.
Pflieger Marine Service recommends Crusader part number RA080033 fuel filter assembly. This, as well as the replacement elements, can be purchased at a great price at www.marinediscounters.com .

We were taught that ethanol blended fuel, if not stabilized, will start to break down in 21 days. It will beak down over time to water directly by 10%. If a 100 gallon tank was to be not used through the summer , then stored through the winter, unstabilized, this tank can have 10 gallons of water in it come the spring. I am giving this information to you to help you avoid the problems that I fix on my customers boats everyday.

Pflieger Marine Service prefers the Star Tron product, especially for diesel. The product is less expensive than StaBil and goes farther. For the diesel guys, why spend 20.00 for a water absorber, 18.00 for a stabilizer and then another24.00 for an antimicrobial? The Star Tron does all of this in one product and I sell the 32 oz. size for around 21.00 at www.marinediscounters.com

Vacuflush F.A.Q.'s

2008-02-02T05:54:00.000-08:00

Here some of the most frequently asked questions I get at boat shows and on troubleshooting calls;
1) Why is my Vacuflush pump running very slowly and then trips the breaker or blows a fuse?
answer: Three things usually cause this. Most often someone is using non marine toilet paper or a sanitary napkin being flushed through. What happens is that the non-marine toilet paper cakes in the suction pump bellows. The bellows in the suction pump is shaped like an acordian. Imagine an acordian that had the bellows seems all clogged with something. You could not close it. Same principle, the pump is trying to make the bellows go up and down but it can not go down(or compress) because the bellows seems are clogged holding the bellows at full open. This causes to the electric pump motor to stop turning, and blow the breaker. The fix is simple, Remove top of pump and pull all caked in toilet paper. Also be sure a hole has not been punched in the bellows as this will cause a vacuum leak.
The second thing that causes breaker to blow is simply an old worn out electric pump motor, especially in salt water applications.
The third cause is that the holding tank is full and the vent line is plugged. This happens very often and can be a HUGE mess if not careful. Overflowing a holding tank into the vent line causes sewage to go up the vent line and plug it. If a Sealand holding tank vent filter is installed and the charcoal inside gets wet, it will cake, stopping air flow. All of this causes the tank to be pressurized. The pump cannot pump against the pressure so blows the breaker. Always check for a bulge in the holding tank or listen for air flow coming out the vent overboard before reomving any hoses from the tank.
2) Why does the pump not come on when I step on the peddel to flush and nothing will go down.
answer; Usually this means the toilet is plugged or a hose is kinked. In my extensive travels I have found an epidemic of kinked hoses in 50 ft Searays in the aft head. This is due to poor installation at the factory. The only fix is to replace that hose run.
If the head is plugged, the pump is pulling a vacuum against the plug and shutting off as it is supposed to. The pump doesn't know the difference between a plug or the bottom of the flush ball. It just runs until 9 inches of vacuum are reached and then shuts off. DO NOT USE A SNAKE in the Vacuflush toilets. I use a shop vac directly into the bottom of the bowl first. Often this will pull a plug out of a flush funnel or bend close to the toilet. If this does not work, disconect the hose at the vacuum side of the pump. Do you hear the shop vac in the hose? If not you have found your clog. Now use something to go up the hose(not a snake or anything rotary). I use an old control cable. Poke around untill you break through the plug. With the shop vac running at other end this will pull the plug through while making a minimal mess.
Another thing that will cause this is a tampon stuck in a duckbill valve. Replace duckbill valves if this is the case.
3) Why does water keep runing into the toilet after flush and not stop?
answer; Behind the toilet is a vacuum breaker. These don't go bad very often, usually from improper winterizing. Simply replace the vacuum breaker and this will fix the problem.
4) What is the best holding tank chemical?
answer; I like the "clean & green" product by Sealand. These are drop in disolvable pouches filled with crystalls that smell pleaseing. They come packaged in either a 6 pack container with lip or a 12 pack container, reclosable bag. The thing I like best is that the are not liquid. This meens no spilling or staining. No possibility of freezing and beaking and making a mess. Just drop them in and flush them through. 1 2oz pouch treats aprox. 40 gallons.
5) This one is not just indigative to Vacuflush. Why does that boat smell so bad after all I have done?
answer; Permiated sanitation hose. Grab the sanitation hose tightly with your hand and hold on to it for 15 seconds. Now smell your hand. If that smell is there the only thing you can do is replace ALL the sanitation hose. I highly recommend the use of Sealnd "odorsafe" hose. It is a little more expensive but worth it. Sealand gives a 5 year warranty against odor permiation. Other white sanitation hose can permiate in as little as 1 year. This is not a job you want to do very often.

As always, ALL these products are available on our webstore at http://www.marinediscounters.com/
Happy boating,
Brad

The third most common Vacuflush fault

2008-01-31T04:08:00.000-08:00

The third and last most common Sealand Vacuflush marine toilet problem after a period of time is that the pump will run and run and won't shut off at all. This is the easiest one of all to fix. Most of the time when a customer says to me"Brad, the damn thing just never shuts off" I ask is this an 80's or early 90's vessel? Almost always it is. The fix is to replace the vacuum switch. The vacuum switch in older models is located in the end of the large white accumulater tank. The accumulater tank is a large white round tank with 2 wires going to one end of it. The little nub that sticks out from one end is the vacuum switch. Simply remove the 2 wires(paying attention to wheather they are on the "A" side or"B" side). Unscrew the entire assembly from the end of the accumulater tank and screw a new assembly in. Clean the surface where the large o-ring rests and lubricate it with dish soap. Never use grease or vasoline or anything petroleum based as a lubricant. Reinstall your wires and you are back in action.

The accumulater tank is most often found in the bilge in the engine room. Somtimes below the floor forward. In older 37 and 39 searays it is under the pull out dinette seat, a real pain in the rear.

If your toilet is in the 2000's for age then you probably have a vacuum generater. There are 2 types of vacuum generaters. If your vacuum generater has a black vacuum pump then it is a VG-3. The vacuum switch is located under the flexible plastic cover on top held down by two small screws. Remove this cover and loosen the hose clamp holding the vacuum switch in place. Pull the vacuum switch out(not threaded) and disconnect the wires. Install the new switch is the reverse of what we just did. Use dish soap on the double o-rings and be sure that they do not roll out of there little slot when sreinstalling as this will create a small vacuum leak. Soap up the opening and the o-rings, insert the vacuum sitch, now slowly turn the switch in the hole and look to make sure the o-rings are in place. Tighten hose clamp and reinstall wires, you are done.

The second vacuum generater is only if you have an 2006 or newer model. This is a J-W series unit. It will have a white pump on top of it. The vacuum switch sticks up, under a cover, in one corner of the unit. Very easy to get to. Simply remove the switch and install a new. As always these parts are available at very reasonable cost at www.marinediscounters.com

Troubleshooting Vacuflush Marine Toiets.

2008-01-31T03:43:00.000-08:00

Another very common problem after time is that the vacuum pump will run for no aparent reason and then shut off. My first question is always, "does the water in the toilet stay or slowly disapear & do you hear any hissing noises?" If the water does slowly disappear and/or a sucking or hissing noise is heard at the toilet then the bowl seal is bad. This is easy to replace. When you get your kit at (www.marinediscounters.com) there is very good instructions on how to replace the Vacuflush bowl seal. The large hose clamp at the base of the bowl should be loosened and the 2 1/2 rings set aside. Then lift the entire bowl up off the base. Remove the old bowl seal. The new bowl seal is a 2 seal kit. Be sure the thin tephlon seal goes down first and is installed properly. There is a cut out notch in the seal, there is a nub sticking up on the base of the toilet. Be sure these two fit together AND that the teflon seal says "this side up". Then install the second ring in the same manner. The second ring doesn't matter which side is up. NOW, at this point I always replace the flush ball when I replace the bowl seal because they wear together. If there is a scratch or something on the face or leading edge of the flush ball it will prematurly wear out your new seal. Once again there are good directions for replacing the flush ball and shft. It is however, trickier than the bowl seal replacement. To much for me to try and type hear. Reassemble your toilet is simply the reverse of all we have explained here. Do yourself a favor , after the bowl is back in lace and you are just ready to tighten the large hose clamp, open the lid and make sure the flush ball is centered in the bowl. Now tighten the large hose clamp and you are done. We do offer bench rebuilding if these precedures are not something you want to do.

Answers to Vacuflush problems....

2008-01-30T07:03:00.000-08:00

As most of probably know, Vacuflush marine toilets are one of the best on the market. They, however can be very tempermental after time. A few basic maintanence items will help eliminate this.

The complaint is typically that the pumps runs for no aparent reason for a short time and then suts off.
1) Standard maintance on the Vacuflush toilet system is to replace the duckbill valves every 5 years. If your's haven't been or you have purchased a used boat, simply replace them so you have a starting point. The duckbills valves are located at each end of the Sealand vacuum pump or vacuum generater. Simply remove one of the sanitation hoses at a time. Now unscrew the black hose nipples that the hose was attatched to. This is a two piece nipple, uncrew(seperate) them. There will be 2 buckbill valves in each end of the pump. Replace them making sure that they all face the same direction, pointing tword the holding tank or overboard valve. Thighten good and hand tight only. Replace hoses and flush 1/2 bowl of water through. It is a good idea to flush 2 or 3 bowls of water through the system in order to clean it out before disassembly.

In the case a vacuum generater you will need to remove the pump from the vacuum accumulater. Simply remove the 4, 7/16 head machine screws holding the pump on the accumulater and uncrew the white 1 1/2" screw collar from the gray 1 1/2" threaded nipple. The pump will lift off and then perform the above task.
These duckbill valves can be purchased very inexpensively at our web store, http://www.marinediscounters.com/

All vacuflush vacuum pumps and generaters pre 2006 use the black 1 1/2" duck billvalve. In mid 2006 Sealand put out a new vacuum generater using 2" duckbill valves. This vacuum generater is designated a "J" series pump. The pump is white and only has 1 hose nipple on the pump. The second nipple runs down the center of the pump. If you are confused as to what you have, simply know that if your's is pre 2006 you use an 1 1/2" duckbill valves. Mid 2006 and newer the pump will say "J-W" series on it. This is a 2" greenish duckbill vavle.