Anodes, What should I use?

When you come to the boat this spring to start working be sure to check your anodes. Remember they MUST be magnesium in fresh water, zink ONLY in salt water & aluminum in brackish water. Many of the boaters here on Lake Erie are running Zink anodes because thats what the came on the boat. Remember there is more saltwater around U.S. than fresh water. The manufacturer of boat does not know where its going once purchased so the default is Zink. If they look "GOOD" it's because they don't work!!!! Stop into Marinediscounters or shop at www.marinediscounters.com for best prices.


www.marinediscounters.com is a great place to find the lowest prices

www.marinediscounters.com

www.marinediscounters.com offers vacuflush, buff magic, sierra, westerbeke,crusader,volvo,mpi hose. Mercruiser anodes, sherwood & johnson pump impellers...

Should I thin my bottom paint?

A question I get almost daily this time of year. "should I thin my ablative bottom paint"? Answer: For 30 yrs. I always have thinned ablative bottom paint but by no more than 10%. Not only that but I love to paint when the temp. is between 25 and 40 degrees. The paint flows better because solvents don't evaporate out so fast however drying times become much longer. This means you use less paint and here in Ohio "it aint goin nowhere soon." Thin with Mineral spirits.  I use Woolsey bottom paints as of the last 6 years, available at www.marinediscounters.com .  Before that I was using the Petitt unipoxy and Trinadad ablative bottom paints.  Petitt now makes our Woolsey brand for us so one can save substantial money by using the Woolsey paints.  Drop by www.marinediscounters.com to find all your bottom paints including Interlux products and VC17 at the lowest prices.

Try Woolsey Antifouling Bottom Paint

  Introducing Woolsey ablative antifouling bottom paint.  Woolsey is Marinediscounters and http://www.marinediscounters.com/ private label paint.  Manufactured for us by Pettit paints.  Woolsey "Ablative Plus" is a 33.6% copperous oxide ablative antifouling boat bottom paint (perfect for multiseason fresh water use).  No sanding needed when overcoating.  Is compatable with most ablative bottom paints.  Compares to EpoxyCop Ablative, Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT, Super-B Ablative, Ultima SSA,CPP Plus at a fraction of the cost.  As of this writing Woolsey Ablative Plus is available at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ for 89.97 per gallon.  Available in black,blue,green and red gallons.  Only black in quarts.  More copperous oxide paints are available in our Woolsey brand as well for our salt water customers.  Call Marinediscounters at 419-625-0605 with your questions or for quantity discounts.

Wix oil and fuel filters at HUGE savings.

  http://www.marinediscounters.com/ is proud to offer Wix filters at HUGE savings.  Call 419-625-0605 or choose your filter in the "Filters" catagory.  You will be interested in our prices on water pump impellers as well.

Sea Hawk or Interlux barrier coat?

  At http://www.marinediscounters.com/ Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff"  and Interlux's "2000E" barrier coats are available at great prices.  Which should you use?
  They both do a great job in my extensive experience.
  I, however, prefer Sea Hawks "Tough Stuff".
  Here is why;  While Interlux makes a decent product, the job will cost double in materials alone.  The "Tough Stuff" is a much higher build product, meaning less coats.  The "Tough Stuff" costs 168.97 a kit at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and is a gallon of part a and a gallon of hardener.  This yields two gallons of barrier coat.  In contrast the Interlux product is 3/4 gallon of part a and 1 qt. of hardener yielding only 1 gallon of barrier coat yet costing the same.
  The "Tough Stuff" is a higher build product and gives you more material for your money.  Be sure to try the Sea Hawk paints as well.  They are available at substantial savings over Interlux at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ by calling 419-625-0605.

What type of anodes should I use on my boat?

  The reason for anodes on a boats hull, outdrive or running gear is to slow damage to gear due to electrolysis.  In fresh water you should use magnesium (or aluminum if magnesium is unavailable).  Zinc is used in salt water.  Aluminum in used in brackish water. 
  The reasoning is simple.  Salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so a harder "sacrificial anode" metal is used.  Zinc is softer than your inboard boats rudders, propeller shafts and propellers thus drawing the electrolysis so as not to damage more expensive parts. 
  Fresh water does not conduct as well so a softer metal is used (preferably magnesium).  Aluminum is in between the two on the hardness scale so is used in brackish water.
  This is simple enough.  What most don't take into consideration is that there is more salt water around the U.S.A. than fresh water.  When a boat is built, the manufacturer doesn't know where the boat is being shipped to.  The default anode is zinc. 
  Now, if a person takes this boat to fresh water, the anodes will not due there job properly.
  Be sure to KNOW what anodes are on your boat and replace them every few years as they will get deteriorated and loose there ground, thus efficiency.
  Anodes are less expensive than outdrives or propellers especially when purchased at www.marinediscounters.com.
  Any person reading this will recieve free shipping on a 100.00 purchase of anodes by calling 419-625-0605 and mentioning www.marinediscounters.com

What Model Vacuflush Toilet Do I Have?

  This is a common question.  Sealand does seem to make things more complicated than they should be sometimes.  ALL vacuflush marine toilets have sticker under the decorative base surround that indicates the model and serial number.
  Following is a guideline for you to use:  800 series toilets were followed by the 1000 series toilets which were followed by the current(hybrid) 5000 series toilet.  There is also a compact series of toilets, the 100 series.  There is a 500 series which is larger(house hold bowl).  If you think of vacuflush toilets this way they are simple to figure out.  Even better, the 800 and 1000 series are no longer available(although parts are).  The vacuflush toilet is a base assembly(part of the model description) and a bowl(the other part of the model description).
  No matter what model there designations to what type of discharge the toilet has.  For example: In an 848 model toilet the 8 denotes bowl style.  The 48 denotes above floor discharge to the rear of the toilet.  A 1006 would be a 1000 series bowl with 06 denoting below floor discharge and a short base.  Bellow is a chart to follow.
848=800 series bowl above floor, rear discharge base
847=800 series bowl above floor, left discharge base
849=800 series bowl above floor, right discharge base
806=800 series bowl below floor discharge short base
808=800 series bowl below floor discharge tall base

As you see 48 always denotes above floor rear discharge, 06 denotes short toilet below floor discharge, etc.  So no matter what model toilet you have, if you can understand the base design, the bowl is just a different shape.
  Be advised ALL 500,800,1000 bases are the same and use ALL the same parts.  ALL 100 series toilets use the same parts.  The 5000 series is a hybrid of the 1000 and 100 series vacuflush toilet.  The only parts kit in the base that is different, however, is the ball and shaft kit(5000 series takes same as 100 series spring cartridge has black end).  ALL VACUFLUSH BOWL SEALS FOR MARINE APPLICATION ARE THE SAME!!!!!!!! 
  Complete vacuflush toilet bases as well as all vacuflush parts are available at great prices at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ .  You may also feel free to call at 419-625-0605 or email me at boatdoc@marinediscounters.com with your questions or to order parts.