Vacuflush Suction Pump At 1/2 Price!!

This blog I am posting to help all of my valued customers save big money. How to come up with a Vacuflush suction pump at literally half price. By going into my web site at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and buying the parts and assembling them yourself(or have us do it for you) the total price of a Vacuflush suction pump is only 383.97. As you already know this pump retails around 750.00.
You will need 1) Sealand Vacuflush Suction pump body P.N. 341504
2) Vacuflush hose nipples P.N. 347800
2) Vacuflush nipple adapters P.N. sea347801
1) Vacuflush vacuum pump o-ring kit P.N.310151
4) Vacuflush duckbill valves
1)Vacuflush W-motor upgrade kit P.N.sea 311423
1)Vacuflush vacuum pump lid P.N. 341506
The only other thing that is needed are some machine screws around the top to hold the top down.
I know this sounds hard but it very easy to assemble. First holding the pump body with the long end to your left install 1 duckbill valve into the pump body facing the direction of the arrow on the body. Next install 1 nipple adapter by screwing it into the body against the duckbill valve. Now install 1 duckbill valve inside of that nipple adapter facing toward the first one and then install 1 hose nipple over that. On the right side, install 1 duckbill valve into 1 nipple adapter from the threaded end so the duck bill is pointing right(all duckbills must point the same way). Screw that adapter into the pump body on the right side. Now install the last duckbill into the last hose nipple and screw that nipple into the adapter. You are 1/2 way done.
Now, set the body on the table and get your o-ring kit and w-motor upgrade kit. The large square o-ring goes in the slot around the top of the body. The small round o-ring goes in the slot around the inside of the bellows on the w-motor upgrade kit. Take the 2 black 1/2 rings and posiotion them across from each other, flat side up around the neck of the bellows. They will fit into a groove made for them on the bellows. Squeeze them together tightly against the bellows so that the 2 ends almost touch. Now set that entire assembly into the pump body. It will not go down into the pump body perposely. Kock it to the side slightly and use a rubber mallat or brass hammer to TAP the high side down into the body. Now you may TAP all the around untill the top of the 1/2 rings are flush with the top of the pump body. Now, grease the small o-ring in the center of the bellows. Take the vacuum pump top, and set it over top of the bellows arm so that the neck of the top touches the o-ring in the bellows. Kock the top slightly and tap the high side so that the top seats flat on the pump body. Look through the top of the pump and make sure that the o-ring is still in the proper postion. Now install the (self supplied) machine screws in the holes around the top and attach the motor to the housing with the excentric going through the center of the bellows. You have done it and it takes less than half an hour to save hundreds of dollars.
Feel free to call us at 419-625-0605 for free advise as always. I will be putting a seperate part number(MD001) on the web site that will encompass all the parts needed to build your half price suction pump. For those of you who wish to have it assembled professionally the price will be 452.72 (1 hr labor added). This still an unbelievable way for you to either upgrade to the whisper quiet pump, replace that old pump with the large steel band around it or get a new vacuflush system and save alot of money on this component.

OLD AIR CONDITIONING

This post is meant to inform our customers of an inexpensive and very reliable way of retiring those old, loud worn out marine air conditioners. For a few years now I have been selling the Webasto brand air conditioners at the Cleveland boat show and on the web site, http://www.marinediscounters.com/, with great success. The bottom line is that you the boat owner, can now get rid of that "Marine Air" or "Cruise Air" self contained unit that is loud, leaking freon blowing breakers or giving you faults. These Webasto units are literally about 50% to 80% less expensive to buy. They come with a 2 year complete warranty. They are reverse cycle. The kit comes with a digital control standard also a remote control. These are 100% self contained, meaning there are no shrader valves installed for recharging them. The question I get right away is "what about if I get a leak"? As a technician, allow me to fill you in on a secret. I shrader valve is almost always where the leak occurs. After all, how often do you recharge the refrigerator in you kitchen(also self contained).
The upgrade from 3 knobs "Marine Air" to digital is around 700.00 plus the mounting kit of 120.00 plus the cable of around 80.00. That is 870.00. Now if you hire someone to do this at 80.00 hr, assuming 4 hours to remove the old and install the new, you are at 1190.00. The new Webasto 12,000 btu reverse cycle with digital control and remote and a new 2 year warranty is only about 1600.00. The same Marine Air unit is 2900.00.
This is just value added information for our customers at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and something to consider when thinking of replacement of an old air conditioner.

Happy Spring to all,
Brad
As always questions or comments can be posted.

Ethanol in fuel

This is a service update sent to me by Crusader Corp. on 10/2006 regarding ethanol in fuel:

This product information update addresses the use of ethanol blended fuel and it's effects on Crusader engines. The implementation of ethanol-based fuel is spreading rapidly throughout the United States. As such, Crusader Engines provides the following information regarding the use of this fuel.

Ethanol blended fuel rated E-10 or less is acceptable to use. Fuels rated higher than E-10 SHOULD NOT BE USED. Ethanol fuels rated higher than E-10 could potentially damage the engine and/or present an unsafe boating condition. Damage to the engine due to fuel rated higher than E-10 is NOT covered by the warranty. DO NOT use any gasoline containing methanol. This very corrosive a will create an unsafe boating condition.

It is important to note that ethanol blended fuel will act as a solvent and will attract and hold moisture. Without proper fuel stabilization and fuel filtration, ethanol blended fuel may cause the following:
- Excessive moisture(water) may cause lean operation to include hard starting and operating difficulties such as, vapor lock, low speed stalling and shortened fuel shelf life.
- Acting as a solvent, ethanol blended fuel may cause gum, sediment, sludge and other particles to be loosened and carried through the fuel system to the engine.

Fuel Stabilizer Recommended for Ethanol Blended Fuel
The use of a commercially available fuel stabilizer, such as Star Tron or Sta-Bil is recommended when storing ethanol blended fuel for more the 2 weeks.

New Fuel Filter Recommendations for Ethanol Blended Fuels
Because ethanol blended fuel will act as a solvent and will attract and hold moisture, Crusader Engines recommends the use of a water separating fuel filter, for each engine, between the fuel tank and the engine.
The filter must be rated for gas use and have a 10 micron filtering capability and a minimum rating of 90 gallons per hour. Water separating fuel filters should be checked frequently for water and contaminants.
WARNING
Accumulation of water and other fuel contaminants may form corrosive compounds that can damage the fuel filter and result in leakage. Ethanol blended fuel may increase this risk. For this reason, annual replacement of the fuel filter, at a minimum, is required to avoid risk of explosion or fire.

Crusader Engines recommends that the fuel/water separating fuel filter be mounted as low as possible, relative to the fuel source, away from heat and easily accessible.
Pflieger Marine Service recommends Crusader part number RA080033 fuel filter assembly. This, as well as the replacement elements, can be purchased at a great price at www.marinediscounters.com .

We were taught that ethanol blended fuel, if not stabilized, will start to break down in 21 days. It will beak down over time to water directly by 10%. If a 100 gallon tank was to be not used through the summer , then stored through the winter, unstabilized, this tank can have 10 gallons of water in it come the spring. I am giving this information to you to help you avoid the problems that I fix on my customers boats everyday.

Pflieger Marine Service prefers the Star Tron product, especially for diesel. The product is less expensive than StaBil and goes farther. For the diesel guys, why spend 20.00 for a water absorber, 18.00 for a stabilizer and then another24.00 for an antimicrobial? The Star Tron does all of this in one product and I sell the 32 oz. size for around 21.00 at www.marinediscounters.com

Vacuflush F.A.Q.'s

Here some of the most frequently asked questions I get at boat shows and on troubleshooting calls;
1) Why is my Vacuflush pump running very slowly and then trips the breaker or blows a fuse?
answer: Three things usually cause this. Most often someone is using non marine toilet paper or a sanitary napkin being flushed through. What happens is that the non-marine toilet paper cakes in the suction pump bellows. The bellows in the suction pump is shaped like an acordian. Imagine an acordian that had the bellows seems all clogged with something. You could not close it. Same principle, the pump is trying to make the bellows go up and down but it can not go down(or compress) because the bellows seems are clogged holding the bellows at full open. This causes to the electric pump motor to stop turning, and blow the breaker. The fix is simple, Remove top of pump and pull all caked in toilet paper. Also be sure a hole has not been punched in the bellows as this will cause a vacuum leak.
The second thing that causes breaker to blow is simply an old worn out electric pump motor, especially in salt water applications.
The third cause is that the holding tank is full and the vent line is plugged. This happens very often and can be a HUGE mess if not careful. Overflowing a holding tank into the vent line causes sewage to go up the vent line and plug it. If a Sealand holding tank vent filter is installed and the charcoal inside gets wet, it will cake, stopping air flow. All of this causes the tank to be pressurized. The pump cannot pump against the pressure so blows the breaker. Always check for a bulge in the holding tank or listen for air flow coming out the vent overboard before reomving any hoses from the tank.
2) Why does the pump not come on when I step on the peddel to flush and nothing will go down.
answer; Usually this means the toilet is plugged or a hose is kinked. In my extensive travels I have found an epidemic of kinked hoses in 50 ft Searays in the aft head. This is due to poor installation at the factory. The only fix is to replace that hose run.
If the head is plugged, the pump is pulling a vacuum against the plug and shutting off as it is supposed to. The pump doesn't know the difference between a plug or the bottom of the flush ball. It just runs until 9 inches of vacuum are reached and then shuts off. DO NOT USE A SNAKE in the Vacuflush toilets. I use a shop vac directly into the bottom of the bowl first. Often this will pull a plug out of a flush funnel or bend close to the toilet. If this does not work, disconect the hose at the vacuum side of the pump. Do you hear the shop vac in the hose? If not you have found your clog. Now use something to go up the hose(not a snake or anything rotary). I use an old control cable. Poke around untill you break through the plug. With the shop vac running at other end this will pull the plug through while making a minimal mess.
Another thing that will cause this is a tampon stuck in a duckbill valve. Replace duckbill valves if this is the case.
3) Why does water keep runing into the toilet after flush and not stop?
answer; Behind the toilet is a vacuum breaker. These don't go bad very often, usually from improper winterizing. Simply replace the vacuum breaker and this will fix the problem.
4) What is the best holding tank chemical?
answer; I like the "clean & green" product by Sealand. These are drop in disolvable pouches filled with crystalls that smell pleaseing. They come packaged in either a 6 pack container with lip or a 12 pack container, reclosable bag. The thing I like best is that the are not liquid. This meens no spilling or staining. No possibility of freezing and beaking and making a mess. Just drop them in and flush them through. 1 2oz pouch treats aprox. 40 gallons.
5) This one is not just indigative to Vacuflush. Why does that boat smell so bad after all I have done?
answer; Permiated sanitation hose. Grab the sanitation hose tightly with your hand and hold on to it for 15 seconds. Now smell your hand. If that smell is there the only thing you can do is replace ALL the sanitation hose. I highly recommend the use of Sealnd "odorsafe" hose. It is a little more expensive but worth it. Sealand gives a 5 year warranty against odor permiation. Other white sanitation hose can permiate in as little as 1 year. This is not a job you want to do very often.

As always, ALL these products are available on our webstore at http://www.marinediscounters.com/
Happy boating,
Brad

The third most common Vacuflush fault

The third and last most common Sealand Vacuflush marine toilet problem after a period of time is that the pump will run and run and won't shut off at all. This is the easiest one of all to fix. Most of the time when a customer says to me"Brad, the damn thing just never shuts off" I ask is this an 80's or early 90's vessel? Almost always it is. The fix is to replace the vacuum switch. The vacuum switch in older models is located in the end of the large white accumulater tank. The accumulater tank is a large white round tank with 2 wires going to one end of it. The little nub that sticks out from one end is the vacuum switch. Simply remove the 2 wires(paying attention to wheather they are on the "A" side or"B" side). Unscrew the entire assembly from the end of the accumulater tank and screw a new assembly in. Clean the surface where the large o-ring rests and lubricate it with dish soap. Never use grease or vasoline or anything petroleum based as a lubricant. Reinstall your wires and you are back in action.

The accumulater tank is most often found in the bilge in the engine room. Somtimes below the floor forward. In older 37 and 39 searays it is under the pull out dinette seat, a real pain in the rear.

If your toilet is in the 2000's for age then you probably have a vacuum generater. There are 2 types of vacuum generaters. If your vacuum generater has a black vacuum pump then it is a VG-3. The vacuum switch is located under the flexible plastic cover on top held down by two small screws. Remove this cover and loosen the hose clamp holding the vacuum switch in place. Pull the vacuum switch out(not threaded) and disconnect the wires. Install the new switch is the reverse of what we just did. Use dish soap on the double o-rings and be sure that they do not roll out of there little slot when sreinstalling as this will create a small vacuum leak. Soap up the opening and the o-rings, insert the vacuum sitch, now slowly turn the switch in the hole and look to make sure the o-rings are in place. Tighten hose clamp and reinstall wires, you are done.

The second vacuum generater is only if you have an 2006 or newer model. This is a J-W series unit. It will have a white pump on top of it. The vacuum switch sticks up, under a cover, in one corner of the unit. Very easy to get to. Simply remove the switch and install a new. As always these parts are available at very reasonable cost at www.marinediscounters.com

Troubleshooting Vacuflush Marine Toiets.

Another very common problem after time is that the vacuum pump will run for no aparent reason and then shut off. My first question is always, "does the water in the toilet stay or slowly disapear & do you hear any hissing noises?" If the water does slowly disappear and/or a sucking or hissing noise is heard at the toilet then the bowl seal is bad. This is easy to replace. When you get your kit at (www.marinediscounters.com) there is very good instructions on how to replace the Vacuflush bowl seal. The large hose clamp at the base of the bowl should be loosened and the 2 1/2 rings set aside. Then lift the entire bowl up off the base. Remove the old bowl seal. The new bowl seal is a 2 seal kit. Be sure the thin tephlon seal goes down first and is installed properly. There is a cut out notch in the seal, there is a nub sticking up on the base of the toilet. Be sure these two fit together AND that the teflon seal says "this side up". Then install the second ring in the same manner. The second ring doesn't matter which side is up. NOW, at this point I always replace the flush ball when I replace the bowl seal because they wear together. If there is a scratch or something on the face or leading edge of the flush ball it will prematurly wear out your new seal. Once again there are good directions for replacing the flush ball and shft. It is however, trickier than the bowl seal replacement. To much for me to try and type hear. Reassemble your toilet is simply the reverse of all we have explained here. Do yourself a favor , after the bowl is back in lace and you are just ready to tighten the large hose clamp, open the lid and make sure the flush ball is centered in the bowl. Now tighten the large hose clamp and you are done. We do offer bench rebuilding if these precedures are not something you want to do.

Answers to Vacuflush problems....

As most of probably know, Vacuflush marine toilets are one of the best on the market. They, however can be very tempermental after time. A few basic maintanence items will help eliminate this.

The complaint is typically that the pumps runs for no aparent reason for a short time and then suts off.
1) Standard maintance on the Vacuflush toilet system is to replace the duckbill valves every 5 years. If your's haven't been or you have purchased a used boat, simply replace them so you have a starting point. The duckbills valves are located at each end of the Sealand vacuum pump or vacuum generater. Simply remove one of the sanitation hoses at a time. Now unscrew the black hose nipples that the hose was attatched to. This is a two piece nipple, uncrew(seperate) them. There will be 2 buckbill valves in each end of the pump. Replace them making sure that they all face the same direction, pointing tword the holding tank or overboard valve. Thighten good and hand tight only. Replace hoses and flush 1/2 bowl of water through. It is a good idea to flush 2 or 3 bowls of water through the system in order to clean it out before disassembly.

In the case a vacuum generater you will need to remove the pump from the vacuum accumulater. Simply remove the 4, 7/16 head machine screws holding the pump on the accumulater and uncrew the white 1 1/2" screw collar from the gray 1 1/2" threaded nipple. The pump will lift off and then perform the above task.
These duckbill valves can be purchased very inexpensively at our web store, http://www.marinediscounters.com/

All vacuflush vacuum pumps and generaters pre 2006 use the black 1 1/2" duck billvalve. In mid 2006 Sealand put out a new vacuum generater using 2" duckbill valves. This vacuum generater is designated a "J" series pump. The pump is white and only has 1 hose nipple on the pump. The second nipple runs down the center of the pump. If you are confused as to what you have, simply know that if your's is pre 2006 you use an 1 1/2" duckbill valves. Mid 2006 and newer the pump will say "J-W" series on it. This is a 2" greenish duckbill vavle.