Saturday, February 2, 2008

Vacuflush F.A.Q.'s

Here some of the most frequently asked questions I get at boat shows and on troubleshooting calls;
1) Why is my Vacuflush pump running very slowly and then trips the breaker or blows a fuse?
answer: Three things usually cause this. Most often someone is using non marine toilet paper or a sanitary napkin being flushed through. What happens is that the non-marine toilet paper cakes in the suction pump bellows. The bellows in the suction pump is shaped like an acordian. Imagine an acordian that had the bellows seems all clogged with something. You could not close it. Same principle, the pump is trying to make the bellows go up and down but it can not go down(or compress) because the bellows seems are clogged holding the bellows at full open. This causes to the electric pump motor to stop turning, and blow the breaker. The fix is simple, Remove top of pump and pull all caked in toilet paper. Also be sure a hole has not been punched in the bellows as this will cause a vacuum leak.
The second thing that causes breaker to blow is simply an old worn out electric pump motor, especially in salt water applications.
The third cause is that the holding tank is full and the vent line is plugged. This happens very often and can be a HUGE mess if not careful. Overflowing a holding tank into the vent line causes sewage to go up the vent line and plug it. If a Sealand holding tank vent filter is installed and the charcoal inside gets wet, it will cake, stopping air flow. All of this causes the tank to be pressurized. The pump cannot pump against the pressure so blows the breaker. Always check for a bulge in the holding tank or listen for air flow coming out the vent overboard before reomving any hoses from the tank.
2) Why does the pump not come on when I step on the peddel to flush and nothing will go down.
answer; Usually this means the toilet is plugged or a hose is kinked. In my extensive travels I have found an epidemic of kinked hoses in 50 ft Searays in the aft head. This is due to poor installation at the factory. The only fix is to replace that hose run.
If the head is plugged, the pump is pulling a vacuum against the plug and shutting off as it is supposed to. The pump doesn't know the difference between a plug or the bottom of the flush ball. It just runs until 9 inches of vacuum are reached and then shuts off. DO NOT USE A SNAKE in the Vacuflush toilets. I use a shop vac directly into the bottom of the bowl first. Often this will pull a plug out of a flush funnel or bend close to the toilet. If this does not work, disconect the hose at the vacuum side of the pump. Do you hear the shop vac in the hose? If not you have found your clog. Now use something to go up the hose(not a snake or anything rotary). I use an old control cable. Poke around untill you break through the plug. With the shop vac running at other end this will pull the plug through while making a minimal mess.
Another thing that will cause this is a tampon stuck in a duckbill valve. Replace duckbill valves if this is the case.
3) Why does water keep runing into the toilet after flush and not stop?
answer; Behind the toilet is a vacuum breaker. These don't go bad very often, usually from improper winterizing. Simply replace the vacuum breaker and this will fix the problem.
4) What is the best holding tank chemical?
answer; I like the "clean & green" product by Sealand. These are drop in disolvable pouches filled with crystalls that smell pleaseing. They come packaged in either a 6 pack container with lip or a 12 pack container, reclosable bag. The thing I like best is that the are not liquid. This meens no spilling or staining. No possibility of freezing and beaking and making a mess. Just drop them in and flush them through. 1 2oz pouch treats aprox. 40 gallons.
5) This one is not just indigative to Vacuflush. Why does that boat smell so bad after all I have done?
answer; Permiated sanitation hose. Grab the sanitation hose tightly with your hand and hold on to it for 15 seconds. Now smell your hand. If that smell is there the only thing you can do is replace ALL the sanitation hose. I highly recommend the use of Sealnd "odorsafe" hose. It is a little more expensive but worth it. Sealand gives a 5 year warranty against odor permiation. Other white sanitation hose can permiate in as little as 1 year. This is not a job you want to do very often.

As always, ALL these products are available on our webstore at http://www.marinediscounters.com/
Happy boating,
Brad

11 comments:

Unknown said...

Very informative article that sheds some light on a dark topic. I'm curious what using a drain opener like Draino would do to the system?

Unknown said...

NEVER, use any type of drain opener or even a plunger. Drain opener will deteriorate the inside of the hose voiding the 5 year warranty and causing potential leaks. Also the rubber parts will be damaged. Plugers can turn the duck bill valves inside out.

Brad
www.marinediscounters.com
Pflieger Marine Services
419-625-0605

smazzola said...

Boatdoc,

I have a J-series Vacuum Generator and a model 500 plus Vacuflush. At the end of last season would kick on every 5 or ten minutes and did this again at the begining of this season. Now it doesn't stop without disconnecting the power. If I fill the bowl, with it off, it stays full. When I reconnect the power and flush it works fine but the pump continues to run until I disconnect the power. What is the best way to proceed.

Mark said...

Boatdoc,
I have a 1987 searay with a 808 vacuflush... Pump ran continuously. The searay dealer replaced the duckbill valves... no fix. I replaced the vaccum switch... The pump now shuts off, but re-cycles evary 15-20 seconds... major leak? I hear no leak sounds and there is no water leaking. I am thinking replacing parts... ball valve,bowl seal, the pump bellows... But the bowl seems to hold water for long periods of time, and I have strong vaccum. Any reccomendations?

Yorky said...

I have similar problem: Vacuum empties bowl well but when bowl re-filled with water the vaccum continues to operate - sucking bowl dry. Power has to be switched off to stop vacuum. Is this a seal problem?

Unknown said...

I found that the intake hose grommet had a slight air leak causing the pump to cycle.

Unknown said...

my boss has a 2008 32' cabo express the vacuflush system head/ronco holding tank. there was a leak in the holding tank when he bought it, which was replaced 2 fishing trips later the brand new tank now leaks in the exact same place as the old one. please any info would ne greatly appreciated dont want to have to install another and have same happen

Unknown said...

Very informative thank you for the posting.

Mark B said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Mark B said...

Great blog.

I have a 508 series with a hairline crack in the toilet base near where the flush shaft ring sits. I isolated it from the rest of the system which holds a vacuum for days. The duck valves have been replaced in the last 6 months, and the lines are good.

I have temporarily repaired with glue, but its not a good solution - the pump cycles every hour now however as the crack isn't completely sealed. Ideally I want to fit a new base kit. I'd like to understand how the base assembly and the funnel underneath connects to the line below feeding the pump.

How do I disassemble black plastic base unit from the funnel underneath? It appears to be firmly attached - is there a trick ? The drawings indicate the parts should come apart, facilitating a new base as a drop in.

Unknown said...

My 1997 SeaRay Sundancer 330 has a Vacuflush head. The bowl does not hold water. Whenever somebody uses it, they are depositing into a dry bowl. Is there a fix for that? Thank you!